"I'd stepped out of our farm retreat onto a prime running route, and immediately thought 'I'm home.'"
"Rt. 16 in North Conway offers outlet shopping and outrageous traffic, where "shop 'til you drop" means 'shop 'til your car runs out of gas'"
After twenty years or so of returning to the White Mountains, the weather still surprises me, even when it's mild. The region suffers twice as many cloudy or rainy days as lower Fairfield County, but don't let that stop you from making a weekend trip; it's well worth it.
That morning I'd stepped out of our farm retreat onto a prime running route, and immediately thought "I'm home." On this five-mile run, distractions from the straight road would include dramatic clouds smothering mountain tops, hillsides dotted with the flaming reds of early foliage season, and the local Franconia Airport with its grassy runway. There were wilderness trails too. Next time.
On this weekend trip we'd enjoy dramatic mountain views, waterfalls, covered bridges, truly excellent meals, small-town simplicity and even more dramatic absence of the stressful noise and crowds of Fairfield County. That's why we'll get in the car time after time to make that white-knuckle drive out of town. And that's why this column will appear month after month from now on, to share the escape routes to the best outdoor athletic activities available, to save you money and planning time. As objectively as possible, I will share with you what's neat and what's beat, so that you don't waste your valuable weekend.
NEW HAMPSHIRE'S WHITE MOUNTAINS
WW Ratings (1 lowest to 10 highest)
| Running routes: | 8 |
| Biking routes: | 8 | Hiking/walking: | 10 |
| X-C skiing: | 10 | All-around fun: | 9 |
Where to stay:
Pinestead Farm Lodge, Franconia, NH (603) 823-8121
How much:
$32 to $40 per room per day. Shared bath and full kitchen.
From Stamford:
5 hours of mostly highway driving
Where to eat:
You'll have touristy company at nearby Polly's Pancake Parlor for breakfast, but if you get there before 8:30 you won't have to wait long for major quantities of the namesake fare. For dinner, drive to any of the Common Man restaurants which are brimming with atmosphere and good food, or take a two-mile drive to the Franconia Inn to feel as if you're at the Homestead in Greenwich (for a lot less money). For take-along lunch fare, Grateful Bread Bakery is a good source of grain goods, and the local supermarket has a deli. Or to save $, take advantage of that kitchen at the lodge. On the way back to CT down I-91, get off that last exit in VT and take a right onto Rt. 30. Immediately on the left is the Country Gourmet Deli, with a spread of food that'll make you smile.
Where to hike:
There are at least four trails up Mt. Washington; run up for a real challenge. The closest to the inn are the Ammonusuc and Jewel trails, but the Tuckerman Ravine trail on the other side is the most dramatic climb. My favorite hike is Mt. Lafayette, which is a better option to run up since much the trail is on a ridge. All these hikes are about 8 miles round-trip. Shorter hikes include Lonesome Lake and Arethusa Falls. A rec trail winds it way along I-93 for scenic views of Franconia Notch, including the Old Man of the Mountains.
What to do if it rains:
Bring an umbrella and visit some of the attractions along I-93 in Franconia Notch. The Flume is a needlessly developed but still very romantic and naturally scenic place, featuring a miniature Grand Canyon you can walk through on a boardwalk. Visit Robert Frost's residence especially if you like his poetry (who doesn't like "The Road Not Taken") Speaking of roads not to take--Rt. 16 in North Conway offers outlet shopping and outrageous traffic, where "shop 'til you drop" means "shop 'til your car runs out of gas".
Bonuses:
No sales tax in stores. Cheap gas.